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Ceramics > Majolic pottery is probably the most common gift to take back home. See L’arte dei Vasai above in the Prodotti Tipici section.


Le Folli Fate > In Italian, when you graduate, you laurearti, you laurel yourself. That’s why you see the students in nice clothes with that laurel wreath around their heads – they’ve just graduated. We’re not so sentimental but we think that a great souvenir to take home with you is a laurel wreath. Drop by Le Folli Fate at Via Ulisse Rochi 14 from Tuesday to Saturday, 9-12:30 & 16-19:30, and ask for helpful Nadia.


Monimbò > You’ll need a present for a birthday or going-away party sooner or later. I’d suggest Cooperativa Monimbò, a great little store that has “fair trade” (as opposed to so-called “free trade”) goods, where the producers in the Third World get a much higher share of the final price. Go there for great coffee, tea, chocolate, rice, spices, snacks, lots of handcrafts excellent for presents and plenty of feel-good philosophy. It’s at Via Bonazzi 41a, just down the stairs that are next to the biglietteria for the buses on Piazza Italia.


Musica Musica > Mom might appreciate the great Italian tenor Andrea Boccelli…or maybe Jiovanotti is more her style. In any event, go the nobleman’s stables-turned-music store and the magic Fofo will help you pick out some tunes. It’s at Via Oberdan 51.


OlivoIdea > Like things made out of olive wood? See entry for OlivoIdea above in Prodotti Tipici.


Il Telaio > Horrified by the prospect of breaking a bottle of olive oil in your luggage on the way home? Il Telaio has gorgeous, traditional Umbrian fabrics woven by the same family for well over a hundred years. Signora Adagatti will be happy to show you her range of original and typical designs all done in classical Umbrian style. Once upon a time real rust was used for the red color in Perugian designs but nowadays the regime of washing machines and fabric softener requires more durable artificial colors. The textiles are on the expensive side but looking and appreciating is well and truly free. Open 9:30-13:00 & 16:30-19:30 Tu-Sat at Via Ulisse Rocchi 19.


Olive Oil > Oil crisis? Peak Oil? Italy’s most over-rated food product, though at least a passable door lubricant, can be bought in bulk direct from cottage industries that press the olives themselves. The nearest is probably Antico Frantoio Trampolini at Via del Giochetto 103, a twenty minute walk from Prosciutti. They also have a lot of great specialty oils and vinegars (balsamic vinegar al ciocolato) and if you have a big enough group, will do tastings and demonstrations. Open 7:30-13:00 & 14:30-19:00 daily except Sundays.


Antiques > The antique market is held at the end of the month in Piazza Italia and surrounds. Apart from antique furniture (everything from bedside tables to grand pianos) there are usually secondhand books, prints and etchings, household goods and all kinds of knick knacks. If you really need a plaster bust of Mussolini this is the place to be. Early morning until sunset, last Saturday and Sunday of every month.


Leather Journals > Antonio is our man out by the Duomo — he handmakes all of his wares. You can also drop by the cool place in Via Guardabassi, before Passion Tattoo on the other side of the street. A great place for your Perugia memories.


thomas davisthomas davis